The Secret Scotch

Around the turn of the 19th century, there began a movement in Ireland and Scotland of men attempting to create a new type of still with which whiskey could be more efficiently produced. First came Sir Anthony Perrier who developed the first known continuous still. Then Robert Stein patented his version of this type of still in 1826. But it would be a long time excise tax professional by the name of Aeneas Coffey that would improve and patent a revolutionary still in 1830. Coffey shopped his stills around to his Irish whiskey making neighbors to no avail. The Irish thought him mad. They thought that this still would produce a spirit without any character or flavor. The still does produce a lighter bodied and softer spirit than a traditional pot still. The Irish whiskey industry would deny this advancement choosing to instead focus on quality and tradition over efficiency and production volume. One often sighted reason for the 2 spellings of the whisk(e)y, stem from this Irish rebellion. The story goes that the Irish would add the E to the spelling of their spirit to separate from what they saw as an inferior product made by their Scottish neighbors. The ever relentless businessman, Coffey awayed himself to the Scottish lowlands where the distillers were already accustomed to the lighter grain whisky styles. Distillers like John Haig would embrace this innovation and start a dynasty of whisky makers. This still was perfect for them and would prove to be a historical game changer in the whisky world.

 

These grain spirits were being produced in the Coffey stills in greater volumes and at a cheaper price than ever before. This would lead to innovative whisky men like the famous Johnnie Walker to use this grain whisky as a canvas upon which they could use malts to make a work of art. This would be the birth of Blended Scotch whisky as a style. Over time, the popularization of blended whisky would call for a great deal of not only the single malt whisky production but a large portion of the grain whisky as well, making grain whisky the low key and at times almost unknown member of the Scotch whisky family.

 

Already damaged by their refusal to adopt the Coffey's invention, in the years to follow the invention of blended whisky and Scotland’s adoption of the Coffey still , Ireland would take a series of blows to their whiskey industry. Prohibition in the US would take away one of Ireland's largest whiskey markets. The for independence from the United Kingdom and the inevitable trade embargo between them would take away another. A civil war after ould further damage Irish whiskey exports. This was all bad new for the Irish and great news for Scottish distillers. The world demand for Scotch whisky would grow to levels never before even imagined. It would be the blends to dominate this demand and Single Malts hand in hand with them. Grain whisky would be pushed even further into the shadows of the world whisky scene.

In recent years there has been a whiskey revival in the global market. While all whiskey is enjoying the benefits of this boom, the focus is solidly on bourbon and North American whiskey styles. the American spirit of experimentation and exploration would see a return of Rye whiskey as I discussed in a previous work, but also barrel finishes on bourbon, wheat whiskeys, and whole new whiskey making regions such as Colorado would find themselves on the whiskey map. It would only be a matter of time before this libertine whiskey movement would find its way to the Scotland and the opportunity to bring Grain whiskies to the forefront of the conversation would arise. Traditionally malt makers from Scotland to Japan would begin to explore the grain whisky category. It would be world Soccer superstar David Beckham and distilling giant Diageo that would bring the first global grain whisky brand to the front of the conversation.

Haig Club is made at Cameronbridge distillery in Scotland making it a direct descendant of the Haig dynasty which was started in 1824 when John Haig adopted Aeneas Coffey's still. The spirit is made from 90% wheat and 10% barley and is aged in first use oak, reused bourbon barrels, and rejuvenated barrels and then blended to focus the palate on notes of butterscotch, caramel, and light oak. Haig Club stands poised to be the leader in the drive to make Grain whisky as much a part of the Scotch whisky world as a Single Malt or your favorite blend. It is exciting as an observer of the whisky world to see this taking place. Next time your palate get a bit of the old whisky wanderlust, pick up a bottle of Single Grain Scotch whisky and explore the delicate and light whisky style that has been the foundation of all your favorite blends all along.

 

Lost Prophet is Found

The Orphan Barrel Distilling Company seeks out barrels of long resting whiskeys orphaned by canceled projects and distillery buy outs and gives them a new life. The first two releases came in the form of Old Blowhard 26 year old and Barterhouse 20 year old. Both of these beautiful whiskies have a grain bill of 86% corn 8% barley and 6% rye. They were both made at Bernheim and aged at Stitzel-Weller in Louisville, KY. Next in the family was Rhetoric with an identical grain bill and a similar history. Rhetoric will be released over a 6 year period making it a wonderful experiment in tasting what each additional year of age brings to the whiskey. In the words of Monty Python, "now for something completely different." The fourth release from Orphan Barrel is here!

Lost Prophet 22 year old Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey was originally distilled at the George T. Stagg (now Buffalo Trace) distillery in Frankfort, Ky. It was aged there until 2006 when it was moved to Stitzel-Weller in Louisville. There is rested until it was awoken for hand bottling at 90.1 proof all the way own in Tullahoma, TN. The original distillery for this whiskey is not the only difference from its three brothers. The grain bill for Lost prophet contains a much more robust 15% rye. Matching with the current American whiskey palate much better.


Since life is not fair, I haven't yet had the blessing of tasting this masterpiece, but Whiskey Advocates John Hansell declares in no uncertain terms, "when compared to other 20+ year old bourbons in this age range (Pappy Van Winkle 23 yr. old, Elijah Craig 23 yr. old, Old Blowhard 26 yr. old, etc.), this whiskey has them beat." I am looking forward to a glass of this nectar almost as much as I looked forward to the birth of my son. This is a must buy for any true whiskey enthusiast. All of the found stocks have been bottled and are hitting the market over the next few weeks. Then, that's it. No more. I highly recommend you buy two and bury one in a very safe place. I have a feeling that years from now a bottle of this stuff will be legendary and sought after by every collector worth his glencairn glass.

Candied Ginger Old Fashioned

Here is a little cocktail that is sophisticated enough for the most discerning of bearded, vest-clad mixologists and simple enough for any home bartender.


Ingredients:
2oz -- Bulleit Rye (George Dickel Rye works well here as well) 
1/2 oz -- Stirrings Blood Orange Bitters
2 -- maraschino cherries
1 -- orange wheel
1 -- lemon wedge
1/2 oz -- ginger syrup
1 piece -- candied ginger (slightly larger than a quarter)

Place fruit and ginger in your shaker and muddle well. Add ginger syrup, bourbon and bitters. Ice it down and shake it well. Strain into a rocks glass filled with fresh ice. Garnish with a cherry and candied ginger skewered onto a sword pick. I also like to add a lemon twist.

The bold 95% rye flavor of Bulleit or George Dickel will allow for ample punch and flavor to this drink. The other ingredients will supply a little sweetness and complexity to this cocktail. This one can be the perfect end to the day or multiply the recipe many times and make a day of the cocktail itself.

For the Ginger Syrup:
1 cup -- Sugar
1/2 cup -- Water
10-15 thin, quarter sized pieces -- fresh ginger
squeeze bottle (obviously optional)

Place sugar and water in a pan and bring to a boil. Add Ginger and allow to boil stirring constantly for about 1 minute. Let the ginger steep in the syrup until it is cool enough to add to the bottle safely. remove ginger (or don't, I don't really care) and add to your squeeze bottle or receptacle* of choice.

* I cant say, hear, or type the word receptacle without hearing the creepy undertaker guy from The Big Labowski in my head. "Its our most modestly prices receptacle".

 

Return of the Rye

        Return of the Rye

That which has been is that which will be, And that which has been done is that which will be done. So there is nothing new under the sun.~ Ecclesiastes 1:9

                                                                         

Okay, so starting out a whiskey blog with a bible quote might seem odd to some, this passage and its lesson of a repetitious history were the inspiration to review this selection. Hey, I'm a roman Catholic who was academically trained in biblical studies and pastoral theology. If I spent all that money on college and grad school, I'm going to use it wherever I can. It will all make sense in the end, trust me.

American Rye Whiskey reached the zenith of its popularity around the turn of the 20th century in and around the Pennsylvania and Maryland area. At this point in history, most of the rye grown in this region would see its way through a still. This whiskey style grew in popularity and seemed poised to become a major player in the whiskey world. Fate, it seems, would have other plans. On October 28th, 1919 the National Prohibition Act (aka Volstead Act) would pass and make all "intoxicating liquor illegal in the United States with a few small medical exceptions, of course. The liquor industry would never be the same again. Access to whiskey was shifted mainly to Canadian Whisky* and Irish whiskey or cheap knockoffs thereof. This would also give rise to gin, vodka, and the cocktail culture. After Prohibition, it seemed rye whiskey would find itself diminished to a historical footnote and a novelty.  

In recent years, the American national palate seems to be shifting away from the sweeter corn and wheat whiskies and toward the spicy dill deliciousness that is rye. The bourbon boom has encouraged exploration and innovation in the whiskey category. High rye bourbons like the 28% rye Bulleit Bourbon meteorically rise in popularity outselling giants like Makers Mark and Knob Creek in some markets. The return to classic cocktails like Old Fashioneds and Manhattans have bartenders and mixologists reaching to the traditionally green labeled rye bottles more and more often. The country's brewers too seem to be taking advantage of all that rye can offer with rye beers such as Great Lakes Brewing's Rye of the Tiger becoming ever more prevalent on the store shelves.   

To legally qualify as a Rye whiskey, the grain bill for the distillate must contain the majority, at least 51% rye and the remainder usually consists of corn and barley malt. The American Straight Rye label has yet more qualifications. For instance, the spirit must not be distilled at over 160 proof, must be aged in charred American oak for 2 years or more at no more than 125 proof, and must not be bottled at less than 80 proof. Unlike bourbon, other processes may be used in the making of a rye. George Dickel Rye, for example, is the only rye to utilize the Lincoln County Method** of Tennessee whiskey fame in its production.

Just as Solomon warned us in in Ecclesiastes, history repeats itself. Old things thought gone and forgotten are made new again. So it is with rye whiskey. Next time you find yourself searching the shelves for brown goods, look for those green labels and break out of the bourbon box. Bourbon drinkers will appreciate the oak, vanilla and honey flavors characteristic of a bourbon in an American rye, but with the twist of dill, citrus, and spice that can only be found in a rye.  

*though traditionally called rye whisky, Canadian whisky may or may not contain any rye at all.
** for more on the Lincoln County Method, see my upcoming blog on Tennessee Whiskey.