Return of the Rye
That which has been is that which will be, And that which has been done is that which will be done. So there is nothing new under the sun.~ Ecclesiastes 1:9
Okay, so starting out a whiskey blog with a bible quote might seem odd to some, this passage and its lesson of a repetitious history were the inspiration to review this selection. Hey, I'm a roman Catholic who was academically trained in biblical studies and pastoral theology. If I spent all that money on college and grad school, I'm going to use it wherever I can. It will all make sense in the end, trust me.
American Rye Whiskey reached the zenith of its popularity around the turn of the 20th century in and around the Pennsylvania and Maryland area. At this point in history, most of the rye grown in this region would see its way through a still. This whiskey style grew in popularity and seemed poised to become a major player in the whiskey world. Fate, it seems, would have other plans. On October 28th, 1919 the National Prohibition Act (aka Volstead Act) would pass and make all "intoxicating liquor illegal in the United States with a few small medical exceptions, of course. The liquor industry would never be the same again. Access to whiskey was shifted mainly to Canadian Whisky* and Irish whiskey or cheap knockoffs thereof. This would also give rise to gin, vodka, and the cocktail culture. After Prohibition, it seemed rye whiskey would find itself diminished to a historical footnote and a novelty.

In recent years, the American national palate seems to be shifting away from the sweeter corn and wheat whiskies and toward the spicy dill deliciousness that is rye. The bourbon boom has encouraged exploration and innovation in the whiskey category. High rye bourbons like the 28% rye Bulleit Bourbon meteorically rise in popularity outselling giants like Makers Mark and Knob Creek in some markets. The return to classic cocktails like Old Fashioneds and Manhattans have bartenders and mixologists reaching to the traditionally green labeled rye bottles more and more often. The country's brewers too seem to be taking advantage of all that rye can offer with rye beers such as Great Lakes Brewing's Rye of the Tiger becoming ever more prevalent on the store shelves.
To legally qualify as a Rye whiskey, the grain bill for the distillate must contain the majority, at least 51% rye and the remainder usually consists of corn and barley malt. The American Straight Rye label has yet more qualifications. For instance, the spirit must not be distilled at over 160 proof, must be aged in charred American oak for 2 years or more at no more than 125 proof, and must not be bottled at less than 80 proof. Unlike bourbon, other processes may be used in the making of a rye. George Dickel Rye, for example, is the only rye to utilize the Lincoln County Method** of Tennessee whiskey fame in its production.
Just as Solomon warned us in in Ecclesiastes, history repeats itself. Old things thought gone and forgotten are made new again. So it is with rye whiskey. Next time you find yourself searching the shelves for brown goods, look for those green labels and break out of the bourbon box. Bourbon drinkers will appreciate the oak, vanilla and honey flavors characteristic of a bourbon in an American rye, but with the twist of dill, citrus, and spice that can only be found in a rye.
*though traditionally called rye whisky, Canadian whisky may or may not contain any rye at all.
** for more on the Lincoln County Method, see my upcoming blog on Tennessee Whiskey.
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