Wednesday, January 7, 2015

The Secret Scotch




Around the turn of the 19th century, there began a movement in Ireland and Scotland of men attempting to create a new type of still with which whiskey could be more efficiently produced. First came Sir Anthony Perrier who developed the first known continuous still. Then Robert Stein patented his version of this type of still in 1826. But it would be a long time excise tax professional by the name of Aeneas Coffey that would improve and patent a revolutionary still in 1830. Coffey shopped his stills around to his Irish whiskey making neighbors to no avail. The Irish thought him mad. They thought that this still would produce a spirit without any character or flavor. The still does produce a lighter bodied and softer spirit than a traditional pot still. The Irish whiskey industry would deny this advancement choosing to instead focus on quality and tradition over efficiency and production volume. One often sighted reason for the 2 spellings of the whisk(e)y, stem from this Irish rebellion. The story goes that the Irish would add the E to the spelling of their spirit to separate from what they saw as an inferior product made by their Scottish neighbors. The ever relentless businessman, Coffey awayed himself to the Scottish lowlands where the distillers were already accustomed to the lighter grain whisky styles. Distillers like John Haig would embrace this innovation and start a dynasty of whisky makers. This still was perfect for them and would prove to be a historical game changer in the whisky world.
 
These grain spirits were being produced in the Coffey stills in greater volumes and at a cheaper price than ever before. This would lead to innovative whisky men like the famous Johnnie Walker to use this grain whisky as a canvas upon which they could use malts to make a work of art. This would be the birth of Blended Scotch whisky as a style. Over time, the popularization of blended whisky would call for a great deal of not only the single malt whisky production but a large portion of the grain whisky as well, making grain whisky the low key and at times almost unknown member of the Scotch whisky family.
 
Already damaged by their refusal to adopt the Coffey's invention, in the years to follow the invention of blended whisky and Scotland’s adoption of the Coffey still , Ireland would take a series of blows to their whiskey industry. Prohibition in the US would take away one of Ireland's largest whiskey markets. The for independence from the United Kingdom and the inevitable trade embargo between them would take away another. A civil war after ould further damage Irish whiskey exports. This was all bad new for the Irish and great news for Scottish distillers. The world demand for Scotch whisky would grow to levels never before even imagined. It would be the blends to dominate this demand and Single Malts hand in hand with them. Grain whisky would be pushed even further into the shadows of the world whisky scene.

In recent years there has been a whiskey revival in the global market. While all whiskey is enjoying the benefits of this boom, the focus is solidly on bourbon and North American whiskey styles. the American spirit of experimentation and exploration would see a return of Rye whiskey as I discussed in a previous work, but also barrel finishes on bourbon, wheat whiskeys, and whole new whiskey making regions such as Colorado would find themselves on the whiskey map. It would only be a matter of time before this libertine whiskey movement would find its way to the Scotland and the opportunity to bring Grain whiskies to the forefront of the conversation would arise. Traditionally malt makers from Scotland to Japan would begin to explore the grain whisky category. It would be world Soccer superstar David Beckham and distilling giant Diageo that would bring the first global grain whisky brand to the front of the conversation.
Haig Club WhiskyHaig Club is made at Cameronbridge distillery in Scotland making it a direct descendant of the Haig dynasty which was started in 1824 when John Haig adopted Aeneas Coffey's still. The spirit is made from 90% wheat and 10% barley and is aged in first use oak, reused bourbon barrels, and rejuvenated barrels and then blended to focus the palate on notes of butterscotch, caramel, and light oak. Haig Club stands poised to be the leader in the drive to make Grain whisky as much a part of the Scotch whisky world as a Single Malt or your favorite blend. It is exciting as an observer of the whisky world to see this taking place. Next time your palate get a bit of the old whisky wanderlust, pick up a bottle of Single Grain Scotch whisky and explore the delicate and light whisky style that has been the foundation of all your favorite blends all along.

 

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